The operating chain of manufactures - The transformation
The "apponce" (the seam)
When the lace arrives back at the manufacture, one worker will then
put together all different pieces belonging to the same design.
This streamstress is called the "apponceuse", she will
also sew the lace to close the frames.
So the "apponce" is a seam which allows for the discreet
sewing of two pieces of lace. It can be done by hand or by machine.
The "crochetage" (which is not done with a crochet hook)
is a way of assembling in parallel several length together, mainly
to make items of large size.
Both the "apponce" and the "corchetage" are
done by the same experienced person, on a machine on which the guard
has been removed, the piece of lace to be sewn being held by the
fingers which slide it as near to the needle as possible.
See collection Regards sur une vie : "Marthe ALIBERT, dentellière et apponceuse"
The "pliage" (the folding)
Once sewn together the lengths of lace are carefully folded in a
card : the "knack" being to strech the lace on the card
with a regular overlap as well as showing the best of its pattern.
The folding will be done either by hand or with a "plioir".
Tha lace cards are then labelled and put away in pigeon-holes. They
help the manufacture to collect the stock needed to deal as fast
as possible with the demand.
The "preparage" (preparation)
Once the material has been cut to the desired shape, sometimes with
the help of a template, the lace is then positioned and pinned to
be sewn by machine. This phase is long and delicate ; the straight
grain of the fabric has to be respected to be sure to have an impeccable
Even when ti concerns complex items, like table-cloths or badcovers
which have several inserted pieces of lace, the lace id only pinned
and not basted on the cloth.
When an item is to be embroidered, the embroidery is done before
the lace is sewn onto the cloth.
The pattern of the embroidery is designed by the manufacturer on
tracing paper, then it is transfered to the material with a needle.
The worker who deals with the preparation puts the tracing paper
in a precise position on the cloth. A stamp loaded with blue pigment
allows for the colour to go through the holes in the tracing paper
marking the design onto the material which can then be embroidered
following the perfect tracing. The embroidery can be by hand or
by machine. It is piecework done at home.