In a manufacture, new designs are created and pricked cards made.
The creation of new designs finds its inspiration in everyday
life through a fashion magazine, a simply decorated biscuit tin
or a botanical theme.
An another hand diverse decorative art documents might be used or
bought by the manufacturer to inspire the designer : ornemental
drawings, flower designs, sample books or watercolour drawings from
the textile industry, etc.
When the manufactures are small, often the owner is also the designer.
The manager might also recruit a designer or use a freelance "chamber
designer" from whom he buys patterns.
Big patterns are firstly sketched then set down in their final
forms. Small design are often worked straight on to tracing paper.
The minimal parts are drawn then symetrically traced by folding
and pricking of the design sheet.
When the codification and the tracing are finished, the perforated
tracing paper is used to transfer the design and the placing for
the needles onto a card called "pricked cards" or "prickings".
The card which will eventually be given to the lacemaker is perforated
with a "piquaire" then filled in with ink.